When I turn the truck on the 2wd is on and not flashing. Remove the negative battery cable before doing anything. When you are in 2wd sitting at a stop, in park or neutral, and you press four high, do you hear anything, and does the light continuously flash or revert back to 2wd. I bought mine from 1A Auto and never a problem sense. Aplie 12 volts to it directly. First Locate the heater assembly on the passenger side under the hood. When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator.
Test the fuel pressure as well to be sure it is within spec, If the reg is blown when you check fuel press. Also use your test light or multi meter and check to power to the orange wire at the module which should be hot all the time. Drivetrain - Slow Or No Engagement of Front Axle. A sensor is alsolocated on the front axle which is closed when the actuator shiftsthe axle into gear. Crawl under the truck, and looking up at the starter you will see it is attached by two bolts.
Had a new iac put into it and that seemed to do the trick. The problem with the service information that I am referencing, is it gives no component location description or views. If it does not work I will check back but I suspect it will work. There is also a front axle switch that has a two wire connector, the same lght blue circuit as the actuator, and a black white hat looks like, in theory, should be grounded by the transfer case control module. Not a big deal to put in, super simple, and therefore super reliable. V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles.
Take out the two bolts and remove the thermostat and when you reinstall it make sure the spring goes toward the engine. I have driven in 2h 4L and 4H at various speeds and experience no weird noises or vibrations. This sequence continues to flash until the jumper wire is disconnected. If it is a unit that has a floor shifter the vaccuume actuator on the front differential is probably out. Ok, I put the truck in the garage where I could get some light on the situation.
I was getting around 6 volts on one and around 8volts on the other one. Take the small flat edge prybar and as you pull the panel edge. So with that you need a t-case motor it is on the back of the t-case. I replaced the actuator on her Tahoe last fall. The manual says it's on the left upper side of the transfer case. I had a 15 amp fuse in a drawer and I put that in just to see if it would get things working. Now take the light green and black wire do the same and the pink wire and the tan and black.
Make sure you get the electric one. Just seems like the front hubs refuse to lock in. Hope this helps you out. If test light lights, replace front axle solenoid and proceed to next step. There appear to be two switches on the axle housing. You may also choose to replace the upper intake cover gasket at this time. If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator.
For more information go to. Age, damage, and lack of consistent use are the most common reasons for these actuators to go bad. It's supposed to be safe for electrical connections but I guess I could have sprayed some on a connector and caused a problem. If not, you may learn the hard way. Should have full 12 volts at all times key on. I changed the actuator tonight the 4wd works know.
Now would be the time to replace the regulator if necessary. It seems like forums for any vehicle tend to turn into a lifesaver for me when it comes to issues with the cars that I've had and this one won't be any different. Mine was corroded on the power leads and a couple of others. The hubs will not lock in. When I swtch to 4lo the 4lo light flashes and only that light. A little extra work to install the extra wire but well worth the effort. Do any of you have a recommendation for what I should replace it with? All it took though, was to take my old harness and wire it to the new shift actuator.
Gently guide the fuel meter body back out of the cover, and remove the cover. Our manufacturer changed the mixture of gas in this new actuator so it is more sensitive at lower temperatures. The door handle inside, has a screw probably. This actuator is needed for the 4 wheel drive to work. The new electric one needs additional power to the actuator which is why you need the new harness with the additional brown wire. I think the models are similar. You can now remove the screws and replace the fan.
Will be putting one in the 97 before winter. Is there an actuator out there that is of better quality and will last longer or would I just be better off going and getting the 4X4 Posi-Lok? It was very easy to install using the online video. Cycle ignition switch On and Off 5 times. Nice for backing trailers up hills. These are all battery in to the module. It seems to me that everything is working but the final part that makes the 4wd lock-in.