Hoses marked with red arrows. Close-up of metal fuel line and fitting: I found it easier to just remove the entire 'evaporative assembly' as shown here. Does anyone has a link to information on this? So fast in such comfort. You could try running a relay triggered by the factory fuel pump wiring, that way it would only prime when you key on and not start running flat out. Starter runs means the engine is cranking. It's always good to have some idea of the wiring before jumping in. If there was a small leak somewhere, wouldn't I smell gas vapor? When you first turn the key to the on position, but not all the way to the start position, do you hear the pump run at all? Check for 12v at Diagnostic check connector B+ terminal with the key in the run position.
As for now we are back to using the first club page. A voltage drop can occur across the inadequate wiring causing the pump to run slower. The starter runs, the engine does not crank, and yeah, it s done with the ignition key. This relay does not have any numbers so I had to open it and check on the inside. Diro's suggestion to hot-wire the fuel pump during startup could confirm this as the target problem.
If the factory pump wiring is of a size that does not match the amperage of the new pump the wiring should be changed bigger diameter. When inspecting the relay inside the car, I found that it was working. Guess I'll know after I switch out the relay, there is a local guy parting his 87 out so I will have it tonight. I do have ignition sparks, I checked taking out the ignition lead from the distributor and grounding it while starting the engine. You can also refer to the white diagram above.
Let me know,once you check the above. You got a bad Circuit Opening Relay? Ideally you want the same voltage as you have across the battery. Needless to say, thank ya'll for the help! If it runs then you have a problem with the relay circuit. Pat: There is a 'circuit opening relay' and a 'fuel pump relay'. I just want to start the car for a few minutes to make sure the pump is working and the main relay needs to me replaced; I don't want to drive it that way. Sorry the Fuel Pump Relay isn't in the fuse box, it's on the rear fire wall but it's connected to the turbo body loom.
If so I'd suspect the pump if it's popping at start. I would look for a break in the blue wires, most likely where they join together. Jack the car up and set it on jack-stands or something that can support all four corners of the car. All this Relay does is switch power to either run directly to the Fuel Pump making it run full speed or switch to run power through the resistor which you can't plug in to make the pump run at a slower speed when off boost. It would be beautiful serendipity if the break happens to be at the fuel pump plug in the console.
You should feel it click on to power the fuel pump. If you can hear the fuel pump that way, try to crank the engine that way. Open and remove the coin drawer on the left side of the dash. It's just hard to reference what I wrote down without having the car in front of me and photos off all the wires. Run a pump like that on a 15a fuse, maybe a 20a.
Its inside the tank and under the car. Can you find a Chiltons manual or the equivalent for the car? In your case, this could blow up the gas tank. Also, I have been told modifications are required to the fuel pump resistor pack to run the aftermarket pump. The other 2 items can go. I suppose I would check the connection to the air flow meter by unplugging and then plugging it back in firmly to see whether that affects the fuel pump switch.
Turn key to on don't start car. I also tested the larger relay in the engine compartment fuse box with the same results. But I also hear a high pitch noise coming from under the car. Quotes will vary from shop to shop. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. I think this relay is under the hood in the relay box.
When I went to crank though, pump still didnt kick on, checked with test light, no circuit. I found it very difficult to remove the large pipe leading to the fuel filler fuel inlet hose , but you don't need to remove this one yet. I will take the fuel rail off today and double check that everything is set correctly. Please don't leave feedback trying to make me look bad. It is usually not the problem, but it is part of the checks for fuel pump operation.