Doing the proper tests at a shop is the only way you're going to find out what's wrong. Note the output sensors are not responsible for vehicle speed. You need a professional to check codes and data along with dropping the pan to see if you have a lot of debris floating around in there. Is there some reason you don't want a professional to check your vehicle out for a proper diagnosis? Thank you very much for you help. Because of this, the P0791 code should be addressed as soon as it is detected, even if the car is drivable. Posted on Dec 23, 2009 www.
I continued to drive it, until I filled the tank with gas. Cycling the power will restore normal operation however, put it neutral and turn the car off and back on and its perfect again till i stop. You should not put off having it checked. If you insist on changing them without a detailed manual the only thing I can suggest is purchase them from the dealer and find them by comparison. Changing it out was even easier than I expected. BernardL, thanks for all your advice on this post.
Made it home and drained the tank, and put fresh gas in. Ramiro, I don't think you've read any of the other comments so I'll repeat this one. I would start out by checking for obvious frayed harness spots such as where they run under the battery and the connector at the sensor itself. The input speed sensor is the one right below the rubber transmission cooler lines. Note that depending on the application, these sensors may have either two or three wires in their connectors. My advice is to have a transmission place diagnose it.
I did have it scanned and it said it was the output shaft speed sensor. You may have to have it done at a shop. You can try it if you want and gamble. I could not find anything that resembles the one in your pictures. It lifts very easily, and the connector slides right off. The transmission started to stick in in first gear. If I were you, I'd take it to a different shop that does transmission work.
Don't know if I should force it. I pulled over to the side of the road, shut the truck off for 5 minutes. If all electrical values check out, the sensor is defective. Guessing, I would say plugged cats, especially if you took it in for a tuneup because it was missing. If it doesn't you may have to have it diagnosed at a shop.
Any use of such information is at the user's sole risk, and in no event shall the provider be liable for any consequential, incidental, special, punitive or direct or indirect damages arising from such use. If you let your vehicle warm up in winter. They could drop the pan after the initial tests to see if it's full of debris. Last night after leaving a friends, my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, reving the engine up to about 3,000 rpm's. It is a amazing truck but since I drove it last it wont go into any automatically unless I do it manually.
First, I ran it through several large puddles of water, probably not smart. Now the light is back on and burning bright again and no flickers at all, I even took it back up on the freeway but it did not go out. It is imperative that the protocol be adhered to at all times, to assure that all inspections, diagnoses, and repairs are successful and efficient. This part installs on the outside of your automatic transmission input or output shaft, and it uses an electromagnetic field to determine just how fast the small gears on those shafts are rotating. Need help with a P0791 code? Today it did it again.
Bernard, My son has a Dodge Durango, V8, 4. Minne, my only guess if the dealer hasn't found any indication of codes or data indicating a problem is that they've had a lot of trouble with the governor solenoid or transducer on those. Once it warms up it still runs and shifts great till i come to a stop it then locks into Limp mode and wont come out of second gear. To get in deeper, you'll need a wiring diagram for checking continuity between harness points. Then you must shift back to 1st and start the process again. Buy all the car parts you will ever need from carpartsdiscount.